Rowing boats in Madrid's Retiro Park: times, prices and how to hire yours

The Retiro Park is one of the prettiest spots in Madrid, and taking a boat out on the Estanque Grande (the big lake) is one of its most fun things to do, especially as a family. Here's everything you need for your trip: prices, opening hours, how to book (including online) and tips for going with kids.

Prices and opening hours at a glance

• Price: €6 Monday to Friday and €8 at weekends and on public holidays, per boat (not per person) — up to 4 people, 45 min.
• Opening hours: 10:00 to 14:00 and 15:15 until closing, which varies with daylight (between 17:15 in winter and 20:30 in summer).
• Occupants: 4 per boat maximum, counting children and babies, and at least one must be over 18.
• Over-65s: €1.80 for the whole boat (Monday to Friday excluding public holidays, until 14:00) — one occupant aged 65+ or holding a madridmayor.es card is enough.
• Solar (electric) boat: €2 per person, a 15–20 min ride (listed as 'motora' in the official price list).
• Booking: in the Madrid Móvil app or at deportesweb.madrid.es (up to 12 h before), or at the jetty ticket office (cash or card). No phone bookings.
• Where: Estanque Grande jetty, next to the Monument to Alfonso XII.
• Ideal for: families, couples and groups of friends.

Where is the Retiro jetty?

The Estanque Grande is in the heart of the Retiro Park, next to the Monument to Alfonso XII. The park is right in the centre of Madrid and very easy to reach.

• Address: Plaza de la Independencia, 7, 28001 Madrid.
• Metro: Retiro (L2); also close to Príncipe de Vergara (L9) and Atocha (L1).
• Accessibility: the facility is partially accessible and, of the 100 boats, two are adapted for wheelchair users.

Boat opening hours

Boat hire at the Retiro lake runs Monday to Sunday, with a split timetable:

• Morning: 10:00 to 14:00.
• Afternoon: 15:15 until closing, which varies with daylight and the time of year (between 17:15 in the depths of winter and 20:30 in summer).

The ticket office closes between 17:15 and 20:30 depending on the time of year. Check the day's closing time on the sports centre's official madrid.es page, which publishes the full calendar, and arrive in good time, especially at weekends. The centre is closed on 24, 25 and 31 December and 1 January.

Retiro boat prices

It's a very cheap way to enjoy the outdoors in the centre of Madrid:

• Rowing boat: €6 Monday to Friday and €8 at weekends and on public holidays, for 45 minutes. The price is per boat (not per person), for a maximum of 4 people: if there are four of you, it works out from €1.50 a head.
• Solar (electric) boat: €2 per person, with a 15–20 minute ride, ideal for larger groups. The municipal price list and the ticket office call it a 'motora', so ask for that if you draw a blank.
• Over-65s: €1.80 (70% discount) Monday to Friday excluding public holidays until 14:00. It's a bargain worth knowing: the reduced rate is per boat, not per person, and only one occupant needs to be 65+ or hold a madridmayor.es card. So if you're out with the grandparents, the whole trip costs €1.80 — just show proof at the ticket office.

How to hire and book online

Hire is at the Estanque Grande jetty, next to the Monument to Alfonso XII. The process is very simple and you can pay in cash or by card.

If you want to avoid queues — advisable at weekends and in summer — you can book in advance through the official Madrid Móvil app or the deportesweb.madrid.es portal ('Barcas de recreo' → 'Estanque del Retiro' section), up to 12 hours ahead, with slots every 15 minutes. Important: the boats cannot be booked by phone or by email, even though some websites still say so. If you'd rather turn up without a booking, go early and buy at the ticket office.

Keep an eye on the weather: if the forecast might affect the service, bookings that day can be ticket-office only. And if the trip is called off for weather reasons, you don't get your money back.

With kids: is it worth it?

It's a family favourite in the Retiro. The trip lasts 45 minutes, the lake is calm and little ones love rowing and spotting the ducks and turtles that live in the water.

• Important: each boat takes a maximum of 4 occupants — children and babies included — and at least one must be over 18. A family of five needs two boats.
• Bring a hat, water and sun protection: you'll be exposed to the sun for the whole trip.
• The youngest may get tired of rowing; take turns, or take the solar boat if you're in a big group.
• Combine it with a walk to the Crystal Palace (Palacio de Cristal), a few minutes away on foot.

What to see from the boat

• Monument to Alfonso XII: one of the most photographed sights in Madrid, spectacular from the water.
• Crystal Palace: you can't see it from the lake, but it's a few minutes away; make the most of it and visit before or after.
• Ducks and turtles: the kids' favourite moment.

Other things to do in the Retiro

Make the most of your visit to discover more corners of the park:

1. The Crystal Palace, a beautiful iron-and-glass greenhouse with temporary exhibitions.
2. The Jardín de Vivaces (perennials garden) and the Rosaleda (rose garden), lovely for a stroll and photos.
3. A picnic on one of the many grassy areas.

Did you know…

• The lake was created in the 17th century, in the time of Philip IV, and was even used to recreate naval battles.
• The Retiro is over 125 hectares and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2021, within the 'Paisaje de la Luz' (Landscape of Light).

Taking a boat out on the Retiro is a cheap, fun must-do in Madrid, perfect for a bit of time together as a family, as a couple or with friends. Book your slot (or go early), grab some sun protection and enjoy the Estanque Grande.

Elsewhere in the centre we have also written up the Museum of Illusions and our night at a flamenco tablao.