El Tilo de Mami Lou, a Charming Café in Bilbao

There are places that feel made with you in mind, and for me Café El Tilo de Mami Lou, in Bilbao, is one of them. I discovered it while looking for pretty places to eat and have a snack in the city: I happened to come across some photos of the café — pastel tones, gold details and some irresistible cupcakes — and I knew I had to go. Want to know what this little corner has that makes me love it so much?

Where it is: opposite the Arriaga Theatre

El Tilo de Mami Lou couldn't be better located: it's right in the Old Town, opposite the Arriaga Theatre, which is precisely the meeting point for the free walking tour of Bilbao. We went on the second day of our trip, after the tour, when it was time for a coffee. It has a small terrace but, although the weather was wonderful, we preferred to sit inside: it's a gem best enjoyed from within.

The story: from the old El Tilo bar to Mami Lou

Before I tell you about cakes and cupcakes, let me share its story. El Tilo was a long-standing Bilbao bar that took its name from a lime tree (tilo) in Plaza del Arenal, planted in 1809 and destroyed by lightning in 1941. The bar eventually closed but, luckily for the neighbourhood, it reopened in 2010 under a new name: El Tilo de Mami Lou.

The owners are Alain and his wife, Natalia. Alain grew up in Belgium but was born in Bilbao, and one day he decided to return to his homeland to open a place in honour of his grandmother Ludovika — whom he affectionately called Mami Lou. From her he inherited a passion for baking, which he later perfected at L'École Hôtelière de Namur.

The atmosphere: a café with the soul of a cupcake

The café occupies the ground floor of a mansion, and its walls are adorned with frescoes by Juan de Aranoa; if you look closely, one of them nods to the famous lime tree. Everything flows in harmony here: the décor, the music, the aromas, the flavours and the friendliness of the staff. It had been a while since a place won me over like this.

What we ordered

We ordered a couple of cappuccinos, a cupcake and two slices of cake, and everything was delicious. Their speciality is artisan baking — cupcakes and homemade cakes — perfect for a relaxed afternoon treat or a mid-morning coffee.

With the family: the little touch Lily won't forget

And here comes the moment I remember most. While we were having our snack, a young man came over to Lily, opened his hand and gave her some little sugar figures: not just any, but a unicorn and a rainbow. My daughter, surprised, said thank you, looked at me and said: “Mummy, I think this boy knows me, because he knows unicorns and rainbows are my favourites.” That thoughtful young man was Alain, the owner. I'm sure Lily won't forget that moment — and neither will I.

In my life I enjoy beautiful things and value the little touches, the people who turn an ordinary moment into an experience. El Tilo de Mami Lou could be just another cute café of colourful cupcakes that does well on social media; but this place, on top of that, has the soul of a cupcake.

How to get there, opening hours and practical info

Address: Areatza Kalea, 1 (Old Town), right opposite the Arriaga Theatre — see on Google Maps. Opening hours: Monday to Thursday from 9:00 to 20:30, and Friday and Saturday from 9:00 to 21:00 (it's worth checking Sundays and public holidays). The premises are wheelchair accessible and you can order takeaway.

Is it worth it?

For me, absolutely yes. El Tilo de Mami Lou is one of those genuinely charming places, not just photogenic ones: good baking, wonderful service and a lovely story behind it. It's a café for an unhurried treat, especially if you like sweet things and thoughtful details; don't expect a full meal or a huge space (it's cosy and can fill up). If you're passing through Bilbao's Old Town, I wouldn't miss it.

More things to do in Bilbao

If you're still planning your trip, here are the 16 best things to do in Bilbao and more ideas around the city.